[EDIT: Didn't work well at all. Formatting this post was a MESS. Does anyone have a good iOS blogging app recommendation?]
A couple of weeks ago, I went to California to visit friends and see their new home in Santa Barbara. After spending a very pleasant long weekend there, I knew just what I wanted to make for them as a thank you/housewarming present before I was even on the plane home.
There are a few steps involved in converting a piece of art into a PES file for use with my embroidery machine. I'm just going to walk through the steps I personally used on this project. There are a few different methods. I work with Photoshop and Illustrator professionally on a regular basis, so it makes the most sense for me to start with creating my design in Illustrator. That's my first image here. (B-K represents their last names.)


Next come the stitching tests. It's going to be pretty rare that something stitches out satisfactorily the first time, so be prepared with some extra fabric. The fabric I chose for the placemat tops was a deep olive green ripstop of a sort, with a grid sewn into it. This appealed to the precision-craziness within me. I chose two different threads, unsure which color I'd prefer. I have a love of combining orange and green, but I also found this pretty, soft, minty pastel thread that I needed to give a try. One of my final stitch out tests was a color comparison. I went with the green.

With the design conversion finalized, I cut the tops and embroidered the design in place on each one. I decided the finished placemats were going to be 12"x16" with a .5" border on each side. That means the tops were cut at 11"x15" (plus seam allowances) and the backs -- a pretty quilting flannel in springy greens -- were cut at 13"x17" (plus seam allowances). The extra size on the back piece wraps around the front to make the border. I'm going to show you how that happens.
First, mark the centers of all four edges of both pieces. Starting on the edge of your choosing, with right sides together, match the center and the raw edges of just that one side and pin.

When you sew that edge, start at the seam allowance distance from each edge. In my case, .25" matched up with the grid, so I was .25" from each edge of the dark green top. Then when you get to the other side, once again stop at the seam allowance.

Do this on all four edges, making sure to leave a gap on one side to turn the piece through. Now, when it's all done, it's going to look like a mess until you turn it around. See? A mess. That's okay, trust me.
You're going to mitre the corners now. This is the only "tricky" part and it's not really tricky.
Lay the piece flat with the top piece facing upward, and bring the right hand edge down to the bottom edge, folding the lower right corner cleanly in half. This creates the sandwiched material in the lower right corner. It's a little awkward to explain, but it makes sense when you do it yourself. If everything fits together well, the corner should smooth out nicely.

With the stitched seam to your left, use a ruler to mark a straight line from the end of the seam stitching to the folded edge of the backing, at a right angle to the folded edge. when you stitch this line, you should be going through two layers of the placemat backing ONLY. If everything lines up correctly, it should meet the stitching perfectly on the other side as well.
If things don't line up quite right, you'll be able to tell when you unfold the piece. If the corner looks hitched like this photo, the corner won't mitre correctly. So snip any extra stitches so that the top piece lies flat.
Do that four times, all the way 'round, and that's it, your corners be mitred. Go ahead and trim the extra fabric from the corners




